When we signed to play baseball in South Korea for the 2020 season, we knew we had an exciting adventure with plenty of newness and uncertainty ahead of us. What we didn’t know was the added sense of newness and uncertainty that COVID-19 would bring us all. We feel so fortunate that, of all seasons, this is the one when God led us to Korea where the coronavirus is very well-controlled (especially given that I am pregnant) and we were able to begin a normal-as-possible baseball season on May 5th.

It wasn’t until the last couple weeks of our spring training in Tucson, AZ, that discussions surrounding COVID-19 started to get very serious. Things were quickly worsening in South Korea (SK) at the time, and the U.S. had not yet been hit. There was a lot of hemming and hawing over whether our team (the NC Dinos) would travel to Korea as planned or if there was a way for them to continue an extended spring training in the states. Logistics didn’t allow for the latter of these two options, so the team flew to SK on 3/7.

Due to my being pregnant and the severity of the virus in Korea at the time, we decided it was safest for me to stay back until conditions improved. When the team left Tucson for Korea, I flew to Minnesota to spend some time with my family. I wasn’t there long before circumstances greatly worsened in the states and quickly improved in SK. About a week and a half after my arrival to Minnesota, I was on a plane to Korea!

When my husband (Mike) first arrived in SK, everyone was being encouraged to stay home as much as possible. No formal “stay at home” or “shelter in place” orders were put into effect, but everyone obeyed the recommendation to stay home aside from necessary trips to the grocery store. Thankfully, the stores never ran out of any food items or toilet paper!

It was only a couple days after my arrival in Korea that people started getting out more. Within my first week here we were able to go out to eat, go shopping at a nearby mall, go bowling, etc. Aside from closures of a few movie theatres and fitness facilities, most businesses stayed open.

With this being our first season in Korea, we didn’t come with a strong sense of comparison as to what life was like before Corona. It has seemed to us as though it is life as usual, just with everyone wearing masks in public (which is not so abnormal for the Korean culture) and several effective precautionary measures.

Such measures include hand sanitizer available everywhere, temperature checks upon entering/leaving most buildings (i.e., apartments, hotels, malls, some restaurants, and certainly the baseball field) and public alert text messages any time someone tests positive for the virus (this includes a list of their recent whereabouts so that anyone who may have crossed paths with them can be tested).

Specific to baseball, all those reporting to the field are asked daily how they are feeling/if they are experiencing any COVID-19 symptoms. There were a couple times in March when someone had a fever, which prompted everyone being sent home and the facility being deep-cleaned while awaiting this individual’s test results. Thankfully, all test results were negative.

Practice continued uninterrupted aside from a three-day break after the tentative Opening Day was pushed back from 4/21 until the beginning of May. 4/21 became the date on which we began scrimmaging nearby KBO teams, allowing the regular season to kick off on 5/5. After all the waiting, it was only fitting for a rain delay to push back the start time a tad on our Opening Day – LOL!

Though baseball is underway, it isn’t quite back to “normal”. The biggest difference is that the games are being played without fans. We aren’t sure when this will change but are very excited for the day that we finally get to experience the magic we have heard about with the Korean baseball atmosphere! Temperatures are still being checked when guys go to and from the field, and they continue to be asked how they are feeling on a daily basis.

A few other rules have taken some getting used to, such as no spitting (so tough for baseball players who have practiced this habit since before they can remember) and no high-fives. Players do not have to wear masks on the field or in the dugout, but most everyone else does and everyone continues to wear masks elsewhere. In our home clubhouse, the food tables are set up one-sided so that no one faces each other while they eat. In the grand scheme of things, these have been minor sacrifices the players are happy to make in order to allow them to play the game they love.

The NC Dinos have been so gracious to allow us three American wives to travel (I have learned that this is not so much a thing for Korean families). This was been a huge blessing. Our first destination was only an hour and a half away, so they asked that the three of us share a taxi instead of taking the KTX train in order to minimize contact with others. We were not allowed to leave the hotel during our stay. That was fine with me because the hotel had an AWESOME gym (which I have been deprived of since early March, being that our apartment gym is still closed) and a beautiful courtyard where we were able to enjoy some warm sunshine!

Our second trip was to Incheon and Seoul. We were cleared to ride the KTX to and from these cities, of course given that our masks stayed on the whole time. We were also allowed to venture from these hotels (again, wearing our masks at all times). What a rejuvenating trip this was!

Now, onto some frequently asked questions…

Q: What is the biggest difference between baseball in the KBO and baseball in the MLB?

A: Quite obviously, there is a language barrier. Between our INCREDIBLE translator, a little bit of English spoken by many of Mike’s teammates, and “charades”, Mike has found language to be much less of a barrier than originally expected. He is still able to build relationships with his teammates and has unique handshakes with many of them. The NC Dinos are a great group!!

Another difference is how long these guys have been playing together. With ~60 high school baseball teams ultimately feeding into just 10 KBO teams, many of these guys have been playing with or against each other for far longer than we are used to in the U.S. Thankfully, this hasn’t made it any more difficult to fit in as newcomers! These numbers obviously mean that most of the guys are more familiar with one another’s style of play, so we are learning as quickly as possible to catch ourselves up to speed!

One minor difference is that the KBO does not observe a seventh inning stretch. Instead, they have a fifth inning smoke break. Smoking is a very prevalent habit in Korea, but thankfully you wouldn’t pick up on this very easily as most Koreans sort of “hide” while they are smoking (very respectful of others, and certainly not blowing smoke in your face!).

And finally, the most comical difference (to us) is the fact that Mike leaves and returns to the hotel in his full uniform when they are playing on the road. When he gets home, we put his dirty laundry in a bag with name/room number on it in the hallway to be collected that night and returned clean the next morning. They don’t shower at the field after road games, and they travel everywhere by bus. So yes, sometimes this means playing a game and then riding a bus for four hours without showering. Fortunately for Mike, he hasn’t had to do this after a start (when he is the sweatiest) yet. We are not looking forward to the day when this will inevitably happen! All this being said, Koreans truly do not sweat as much as Americans do, so it isn’t a huge deal for them (plus, they are used to this routine).

Q: How has it been adjusting to life in Korea?

A: As with the language barrier, adjusting to life in SK has been a far smoother transition than either Mike or I imagined. We have to credit a lot of this to our organization, as they have been so generous in setting us up with a well-equipped apartment located within walking distance of plenty (the baseball field, grocery stores, restaurants, tons of coffee shops, etc.). They also provide us with the most helpful translators!

In spring training, they taught what we called “Korean class”. These classes consisted of learning to read the language and being made aware of a few key cultural differences in both baseball and daily life in Korea as compared to the U.S. These classes were taught by an individual who is from Seattle but has lived in Korea for 15 years now. The information learned in these classes took away some of the potential culture shock and helped prepare us for many upcoming firsts!

One thing we were shocked to learn in “Korean class” is that ~97% of those living in Korea are Korean. In our immediate area, there are very few foreigners. English is minimal, though there are some English words written in Korean that we are able to read – thanks to our prep in spring training! I would venture to say that we don’t feel as isolated as originally expected, as we have been able to interact with some of the local people to at least a small degree. For example, store owners here are super friendly. There are many we wave to as we walk by each day and others with whom we are able to have a decent bit of conversation (the back and forth is choppy, but the message gets conveyed and smiles are certainly exchanged!). Many of them offer us free goodies, which they call “service”, and these little treats have gone a long way in making us feel more accepted.

As I mentioned, spoken English is not very prevalent here. This is especially among the older generations, but both parties know at least a couple key words in the opposite language that help make life much easier. Google Translate and Papago help fill in the gaps when needed. (Though sometimes Google Translate offers some pretty comical translations, such as instruction to “add 3 cups of paper” to our pancake mix or “boil on a river” the water used in soup!) Other key similarities to back home that make SK feel less foreign are the fact that they drive on the right side of the road, the driver sits on the left side of the car, and most all cars are modern models.

The grocery stores we can walk to from our apartment, namely Lotte Mart and HomePlus, are AWESOME! They carry enough familiar brands that we don’t feel so far from home, while still pushing us out of our comfort zones from time-to-time. We are most grateful that they have familiar brands of peanut butter, salsa, hot sauce, beverages, and chips. Mike would say he is most grateful for the Pringle’s and Oreos! 😊

The meat situation here is a bit different than we are used to back home. They do not have ground turkey, and the ground beef can be pricey. They do have plain chicken breasts (also a bit pricey), frozen shrimp and fresh salmon – a cut of fish we have been able to find that is just the filet…yes, there are plenty other options that come with much more than this! People laugh at me for this, but the grocery items I miss the most are hummus and baby carrots – neither of which are a thing here. I also have not seen celery yet!

Fruit has been easier. It is all super fresh, but with the extreme freshness comes limitation with seasons. In general, most types of produce are typically only available for purchase (at a reasonable price) while “in-season”. For example, when we got here there were fresh strawberries and blueberries galore. We can’t find strawberries anywhere now, and blueberries are extremely expensive (the equivalent of $9 for a small container).

We love our apartment! The three things I have found to be in greatest contrast to apartments we’ve had in the states are the heating/cooling system, the toilets, and the oven. There is no “heat” in our apartment, just heated floors. They work great, but this was definitely new to us! We cannot set the apartment to a certain temperature and allow it to self-regulate. Instead, we turn on the heat/air conditioning in each room as needed.

The toilets are awesomeeee- they flush automatically, and the seats are heated! They come with plenty of other features as well, but we opt out of these (bidet-lovers, Korea is waiting for you!). The oven contains just one shelf, with a relatively small circular rack. We are very grateful for this petite kitchen appliance though, as we have come to learn that it is not found in all Korean homes.

Q: What has been the most surprising thing about South Korea?

A: We had no idea how GORGEOUS this country is! Our team is located in the southern part of the country in a smaller city called Changwon. Both city and countryside alike, we had no clue the magnitude of Korea’s natural beauty! It is mountainous and green, even in the cities, and a gorgeous variety of colorful flowers blooms here. Being that we are on the 35th floor of our 49-story apartment building, we get a great view of the landscape around us. We enjoy this view daily! People make the most of the beautiful landscape by hiking often and spending a fair amount of time outside. It’s super safe here, so kids are always playing outside on their bikes, scooters, rollerblades, etc. without need for close adult supervision.

Another thing we have found surprising is the prevalence of coffee shops. They are EVERYWHERE! They are all so cute and typically boast expansive drink menus, fresh bakery treats, unique décor, and oftentimes a scenic view. We have enjoyed checking out as many as possible thus far!

Q: What is the food like in Korea?

A: As far as dining out goes, the most popular types of restaurant are Korean BBQ and Ramen. Korean BBQ pretty much refers to the style of the meal, during which you order various cuts of meat and cook them on a grill at your table. Each restaurant typically specializes in select types of meat, so you’ll have a “beef place”, a “chicken place”, a “pork place”, etc. Side dishes are done slightly different at each spot, but you are always guaranteed a free side of Kimchi (fermented cabbage). Other complimentary side dishes will vary. Their “salad” will either be a western-style salad OR just strips of green onion…yeah, not my fave LOL. All side dishes are unlimited! 

I am not a huge noodle (or rice) person – I know, not exactly cut out for this Asian living thing – but I do really enjoy the flavor of the Ramen in Korea! Pretty much all Ramen here is spicy, just to varying degrees. The add-ins vary but some examples include beef, pork, fish cakes, mushrooms, seaweed, soft egg, etc. Although there are plenty of places that focus on serving primarily Ramen, it is also a dish commonly enjoyed after eating the meat at a Korean BBQ restaurant (sort of as a second course).

Before arriving in Korea, we were told/under the impression that they don’t really do sweets. We strongly disagree!! Ice cream is very easy to find. Bakeries with delicious, FRESH baked goods are everywhere. The grocery stores offer a great variety of candy and packaged baked good-type items. We have been shocked! I will say that ice cream from the grocery store is certainly more expensive in Korea than it is back home, but that isn’t true for soft serve or ice cream bars that you would get out somewhere here (much more reasonably priced). Given that my husband has had sweet tooth cravings while I’ve been pregnant, we are very grateful for the ease of access + variety of goodies that Korea has to offer! 😉 

These are the main points I can think to highlight regarding the KBO/life in Korea for the time being, but please feel free to reach out and ask me any additional questions that come to mind! We are certainly keeping our baseball fam back home in our thoughts and prayers. Best wishes and much love to you all!<3